Madurai had always been a transit point for many of our trips to the state of Tamilnadu- Kodaikanal and Kanyakumari being important ones. One more destination was added this year- the Chettinad region. Not far away from Madurai (an easy 2-hour drive), Karaikudi is the closest town that can offer a peep into the simple yet opulent mansions that belong to the Chettiars.
The name Chettinad does not refer to any particular village or town but to a group of around 80 villages where the people from Chettiyar community lived. Nattukotai Chettiyars, as they are popularly referred to, were fine businessmen who traded with European and Southeast Asian countries such as Burma, Singapore, Indonesia and Malaysia. These overseas trades made them settle down close to the sea. But a tsunami -like event stuck the town and all the properties of the Chettiyars were submerged. That is when they decided to move towards Karaikudi, away from the sea.
They had accumulated so much wealth that they eventually became money lenders- lending money even to the East India Company. The mansions that we see today are an example of their prosperity and their taste for 'all fine things'- Italian marble floorings, intricately carved Burma teak pillars, Moroccan chandeliers and Belgium mirrors and glasses; not to miss the very local and colourful Athangudi tiles for interior parts of the manor. Each element of the mansion reflects their taste and prosperity. Interestingly, all the European elements blend with the Indian design beautifully.
The First mansion that I witnessed upon entering Karaikudi
Another mansion in the heart of Karaikudi market
The Chettiyars were a joint family with members in one family extending up to 40-45 members. The innumerable rooms, open courtyards, elaborate dining halls ensured every member in the family had their space. Each room would, then, have the name of one family head written on it indicating its owner. The layout of all Chettiyar mansion remain same- entrances with Burma teak wood doors (with an extensive intricate work carved out of mythology) that lead to open courtyards with intricately carved wooden beams on both sides. The entry hall is always led by outer veranda (called the Thinnai). These 'thinnais' have huge marble columns and these were the places where the men conducted business. All the rooms of the house were arranged around the open courtyard, and it was the heart of the house where most of the activities occurred. The interior section of the houses was reserved for kitchen along with the second courtyard meant for light and ventilation. These palatial houses were built keeping in mind the arid weather that would keep the house cool and ventilated during harsh weathers. The sloping roofs aided in collecting water for household chores, the excess of which would eventually flow through an outlet and get collected in the village tank.
The open courtyards were, by far, my favourite part of these mansions. It may have served many purposes back then but for me, it served as a place to stand and wonder about the grand old days of the past.
There are about 40 villages that consist of these mansions, and they are beautifully lined along the narrow lanes in and around Karaikudi. Kanadkathan is the village that houses many mansions; it is a quaint, little sleepy village that seems to take you back in time. The whole village can best be explored on foot. While many mansions have been converted into boutique hotels, others have been occupied by elderly couple or left to the mercy of caretakers. VVR Mansion and SASRM Mansion are open for tourists with an entry fee of Rs. 50 per head. And for the ones that have been converted to hotels, one can pre-book a lunch and get a chance to view the interiors of the property. We chose the Chettinad Mansion for lunch while in Kanadkathan. Though most of the hotel restaurants are overpriced, they served one of the best Chettinad thalis.
The empty streets of Kanadkathan
A mansion in Kanadkathan which was at the mercy of caretakers
The outer wall of the same mansion
SASRM Mansion
VVR Mansion
Other hotels worth visiting are the Bangala, Chidambara Vilas, Saratha Vilas. The Bangala and Chidambara Vilas are quite popular landmarks in the area, the former for its hospitality and latter for the sheer grandeur of the mansion. Since we stayed in Chidambara Vilas for a day, it definitely needs a separate post to do justice to its' opulent beauty.
Another place of equal importance that cannot be missed during this trip is a visit to the Athangudi village. The handmade Athangudi tiles are famous for its unique patterns, there are several factories in the village that allow the visitors to witness the process of making each tile by skilled laborers. Some factories even allow the tourists to try their hand in the making. The village is also an abode for one of the most colourful palaces in the area. The palace may look like a regular house in a village from the outside but as soon as one enters the front porch, they are immediately attracted to the colourful glazed tiles used on the walls and the stained-glass arches.
Chettinad Palace/Raja's Palace that is not open for public due to property dispute
The open courtyard of Chettinad Mansion that has been converted into a boutique hotel
Grand interiors of Chettinad Mansion
View from the terrace of Chidambara Vilas
Visible grandeur of Chidambara Vilas as soon as one enters!
The stunningly intricate wooden carvings at the main entrance of Chidambara Vilas
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