Ruins of Basgo Monastery in Ladakh

While I was still trying to absorb the stunning beauty of clear blue skies, barren brown mountains with patches of green pastures and gushing turquoise waters of Indus river in Ladakh, I visited the Basgo Monastery or the Basgo Castle/Palace.

Situated at distance of just 40 kms from Leh city, Basgo monastery gives the impression of a part of history holding and hanging down the crumbling walls and cliffs of the surrounding landscape. It's difficult to distinguish between the landscape and the walls of the monastery as it gives the impression that the monastery is trying to camouflage its' ruined state with the landscape.

View of Basgo Palace/ Monastery from the highway...

Chamba Lhakhang, highest point in Basgo

Built atop a hill in 15th century, it was declared one of the 100 endangered world monuments by UNESCO in the year 2000. Due to its' strategic location, it was built to stop the constant attack by Muslim rulers. Back then, there were two important rulers who ruled over the Northern and Southern Ladakh- King Takbumde and King Takpabum who passed over Basgo among each other as a treaty. Later, the original king of Basgo fought back the kingdom and his descendants Dharmaraj Jamayang Namgyal and Dharmaraj Singay Namgyal built the Basgo monstery and castle.

Landscape around the  monastery...

Ruined walls in the midst of mountains...

The excitement of having visited a unique land made me wander around the deserted monastery. None of the three temple doors were open though I had followed the entry ticket counter searching for someone to provide the ticket. The altitude, the narrow alleys and the steps kept me gasping for breath even as I put forth slower than usual paces. The only sounds were that of our (my family) excited voices and rustle of the wind. Though my heart longed to see the massive Maitreya Buddha idol that is believed to be situated in one of the temples, I had to pacify myself and spend time basking around the palace with stunning views.

Steps leading to temple

Chamba temple

Kopeshwar Temple in Khidrapur

Khidrapur happened because of a family trip to Sangli.

We had driven after a long time- from Hyderabad to Sangli stopping at night in Solapur. Located between the borders of Maharshtra and Karnataka, Khidrapur is about an hours drive from Sangli. It is easily accessible from Kolhapur too. Khidrapur is a quaint little village with sugarcane farms all around it.

The legend behind the temple is as gorgeous as the carvings in it- Sati's immolation in Daksha's yagya on insulting Lord Shiva and eventual anger in Shiva who beheads Daksha only to be pacified by Lord Vishnu to restore Daksha's head with a goat's head is the story behind it. Lord Visnu brought Lord Shiva to Khidrapur to pacify him. Hence the name Kopeshwar temple. Unlike other Shiva temples, Nandi is missing here as he escorted Sati during her immolation. We can witness Lord Visnhu too in this temple.

Though part of it was built in 7th century by Badami Chalukyas, it was completed in 11th and 12th century by Shilahara king Gandaraditya and Vijayaditya. But, like all the other temples in India, this too was attacked and parts broken by Aurangzeb! Even today, none of the 92 elephant sculptures in the vicinity have their trunks in tact.

At the entrance of Swargamandapa

Exteriors of the temple...

The temple, built using hard basalt rock, stands as an example of one of the richest (in terms of architecture) in Maharashtra in the banks of river Krishna. The temple is divided in to four parts- the Swargamandapa, the Sabhamandapa, Antharal and Garbhagriha.
The first part- Swargamandapa, with its' circular open to sky ceiling, is its' unique feature. Though it looks incomplete, it was meant to be so. Of the total 48 pillars in the Swargamandapa, 12 main pillars have the sculpture of a deity  (Ashtadigpalas and other Gods) riding his/ her vehicle. Interestingly, these deities look as if they are riding alone if you look at them from front but a slight variation in angle would reveal their consort seated behind the deity except Karthikeya.

Complete view of Swargamandapa

Open to sky ceiling

Sculpture of deities on pillars

Pillars in Swargamandapa

The Sabhamandapa has 60 pillars with 5 Dwarapalas on lower panels of the door. The pillars depict stories from Ramayana, Panchatantra and other motifs of peacock, flowers etc., Photography inside the Sabhamandapa is prohibited. 

The Antaral has beautiful Madanikas carved (sadly broken) and an exquisitely carved  Chandrashila before entering the Garbhagriha. The Garbhagriha has two lingas- of Kopeshwar and Dhopeshwar. 
The exterior part of the temple has innumerable elephant and madanika sculptures.

The broken elephant sculpture, deity on the pillar with consort and dwarapalas...

Exterior carvings, lattice window and madanikas...

Spokes outside Swargamandapa

Unfortunately, there was guide available when we visited and the crowd too was large. But it didn't stop us from savouring the beauty of the temple especially the Swargamandapa! On our way back, we stopped at another temple village Narsoba Wadi; more for the food at one of the 'bhojanalayas' called the 'Soman Bhojanalaya' that served authentic Maharashtrian thalis. This village is famous for its' Dattatreya temple situated next to Krishna river.