Chitradurga Fort

This was not the first time I was visiting Chitradurga fort. As a student I had trekked through the fort on numerous occasions. It was one of the most favored picnic spot too with relatives and friends. But this brief visit to the fort was special as it was the first time I was going to capture its’ beauty in my camera!

Boulders at the entrance of the Fort...

The Chitradurga Fort (called as ‘Chitaldoorg’ by the British) is just an hour’s drive from Davangere. The fort is well- known as “Elu Suttina Kote” in Kannada referring to its’ seven levels of fortification. Apparently, the carved depiction of the ‘seven headed serpent’ at the entrance of the fort signifies its’ 7-level fortification.

The seven headed serpent...

A rock cut edict by Emperor Asoka reveals that Chitradurga was part of the Mauryan Empire in the 3^rd century B.C. Soon after their fall, they were ruled under Rashtrakutas, Chalukyas and Hoysalas. This fort was built in stages between 17^th and 18^th century B.C. under these rulers. But it rose to prominence (under the feudatory state of Vijayanagara Empire) by Nayakas or Palegars. An eminent Palegar- Timmanna Nayaka, rose to the rank of governer of Chitradurga under the Vijayanagara rulers built and fortified the fort.

After the fall of the Vijayanagara Empire, Nayakas proclaimed their independence. Later, in 1779 the fort was conquered by Hyder Ali who along with his Tipu Sultan, expanded and strengthened the Fort (after the last Nayaka Madakari Nayaka V). After the death of Tipu Sultan, the fort was acceded to the British.

The circular formation that is seen at the top is Tuppada Kola...

The fort is built in a series of seven concentric fortification walls with various passages, citadel, masjid, warehouses for grains and oil, water reservoirs and ancient temples. There are 18 temples in the upper fort and one huge temple in the lower fort. The masjid was an addition during Hyder Ali’s rule. The fort with many interconnecting tanks was used to harvest rain water and it was never said have received water shortage.

View of Gaali Gopura and Deepa Stamba from Ekanatheshwari temple...

A carefully planned and sophisticated water harvesting system ensured Chitradurga’s inhabitants rarely ran out of water. In the late 1700s, when Hyder Ali contemplated conquering Chitrdurga, he made enquiries about the Fort’s supplies; he was told the fort had water for it’s’ inhabitants to survive 12 years without water!

'Akka Thangi honda' where rain water was harvested...

Believed to be impregnable with its’ seven concentric ramparts, Chitradurga fort features bold rock hills and picturesque valleys. It is known as the “Stone Fortress” (Kallina Kote). According to Mahabharata, a man-eating ‘rakshasa’- Hidimba and his peace loving sister Hidimbi lived on the hills. When the Pandavas came there with their mother Kunti during the course of their exile, Bhima had a duel with Hidimba in which the latter was killed. So after, Bhima married Hidimbi and they had a son Ghatotkacha who had magical powers. Legend has it the boulders were part of the arsenal used during that duel. In fact, the boulders on which major part of the city rests belong to the oldest rock formation of the country.

Boulders everywhere...

                                                                                                                                                                 

The legend of Onake Obavva, who single-handedly fought against Hyder Ali’s soldiers, is famous too here. The small opening amongst the rocky formation from where Hyder Ali’s soldiers infiltrated stands as a testimony to the bravery of Onake Obavva.

Eka shila Nandi temple...

One more interesting spot to visit inside the Fort would be Thuppada Kola (place where Ghee was stored). But it lies on top of the hill and the climb towards the tank is quite tedious and one might have to climb in all fours when the wind is too harsh; though, I have always tried to escape from climbing on top to this place.

Muruga Matha complex on the way to Sampige Siddeshwara temple...

The fort is also a home for a troop of monkeys and there are quite a number of people who visit the place every day just to feed the monkeys. If one is lucky enough, they can also witness a ‘human monkey’ doing his acrobats on the walls of the fort. Popularly known as ‘Kothi Rama’, he climbs onto the walls of the fort without any supportive devices and his act gathers a lot of audience.  

After spending a good amount of time and climbing up and down the fort, one must definitely visit Laxmi Bhavan Tiffin Room located near Aane Baagilu who serves very delicious  ‘kaali dosa’. Most imporantly, do not forget to apply your sunscreen as I got a tan from just an hour's exposure to the very mild sun on a breezy day. 

Qutb Shahi Tombs

It’s been almost eight years that I have been staying in Hyderabad now. As I scrolled down the pages of my blog posts I realized that I haven’t written about any of the monuments of Hyderabad. So here is something about Qutb Shahi tombs. The pictures were taken long back and at a time when I was not as passionate about photography as I am now. I do not have very specific pictures for their respective information so it is very random.

Beautiful evening light illuminating the tomb...

Qutb Shahi Tombs complex lies just about 2kms from the Golconda Fort. If someone is planning a visit to the famous Golconda fort, s/he cannot miss witnessing this sprawling tombs complex.

The imperial legacy of the Qutb Shahis can be traced back to the Bahamani kingdom. During the period of Bahamani kingdom (which disintegrated at the end of 15^th century), there emerged five independent kingdoms in the Deccan (between the north of the river Godavari and river Krishna). These Deccan Sultanates were of Ahmednagar, Berar, Bijapur, Bidar and Golconda (later Hyderabad).

The Qutb Shahi dynasty was founded by Sultan Quli- Qutb-ul- Mulk, a migrant from Turkistan, in 1518. Later in 1543, Jamsheed Quli Qutb Shah murdered the first Sultan and ascended the throne. After Jamsheed’s death his brother Ibrahim took over the kingdom. He fortified the Golconda fort and developed the very famous Hussain Sagar lake.

A mosque inside the tombs complex...

Muhammad Quli, third son of Ibrahim, succeeded him. But, during his time the population of Golconda grew enormously which resulted in water scarcity. There was also an outbreak of cholera at the same time. To tackle the situation Muhammad ordered for a new city to be built beyond Purana Pul (bridge over river Musi, the only bridge that survived the Great Musi flood in 1908). Thus emerged Hyderabad!

Reflection!

History also has its story that Muhammad was in love with a Hindu girl called Bhagmati who lived across the river. His father decided to build the bridge to help his son to cross the river safely. So it is also called as ‘Pyar- ana- pul’.

Some black and white retreat for the eyes...

The tombs of the Qutb Shahis are a mausoleum complex which comprises the tombs (thirty tombs) of the Royal family and the officials who faithfully served them. The complex consists of mortuary bath and mosques.

Archways...

The tombs found in the complex are built in Persian, Pathan and Hindu architectural styles using grey granite, with stucco ornamentation. This is one of its kinds in the world where an entire dynasty (Family) has been buried at one place. 

Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur

Jodhpur’s very famous Mehrangarh Fort stands as a testimony to the glorious past of the Rathore rulers. It is one of the largest forts of Rajasthan as well as India. It was built by Rao Jodha (founder of Jodhpur city) in 1460. The fort was named Mehrangarh- meaning ‘fort of the Sun’ as it was believed (mostly mythical) that the clan was descendents of Sun God- Surya. It is situated 400 ft above the city with imposing thick walls whose walls rise up to 120 ft height and 70 ft thickness. The mighty ‘fort’ was never beaten in its working tenure and provided a solid security to the vibrant city of Jodhpur.

View of the fort from outside

This is what we get to see as we enter!

Walls and cannons. Notice the thickness of walls!

There are several palaces inside the fort that are well- known for their intricate carvings and expansive courtyards. It is also famous for its meticulously maintained museums that feature wide range of royal collection. The museum houses a collection of palanquins, royal cradles, miniatures and costumes.

The peacock palanquin

The Royal Cradle

Maharaja Rao Jodha built this fort atop a hill called as the Bhaucheeria, the mountain of birds. A legend says that, ‘Rao Jodha’ had to displace the hill’s solitary resident- a hermit named Cheeria Nathji (Chidia Nathji), the lord of birds, in order to build his massive citadel atop the hillock. Agitated ‘Cheeria Nathji’ reluctantly evacuated his abode only to curse the king as- “Jodha, your citadel may always suffer the scarcity of water!” Although the curse of the hermit didn’t detour the king from his decision of building the fort, the king tried to pacify the furious hermit by building a spectacular house for him & a temple near the cave ‘Cheeria Nathji’ had used for his penance. Apparently the fort & the surrounding city still face draughts after every 3-4 years!

A peep into the 'Blue City'

Intricate work inside the palaces!

Although ‘Mehrangarh’ was founded by ‘Maharaja Rao Jodha’, today’s humongous appearance is credited to Maharaja Jaswant Singh (1638-78) who played a vital role in refurbishing the palaces & strengthening them. The fort and palaces were built over a period of 500 years. As a result each building has a different style representing different periods. 

View of Jaswant Thada, a memorial built in memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh by his son

Moti Mahal takes its name from the quality of lime plaster used. Mixed with finely crushed shells, it gives a pearl- like luster to the surfaces. Oil- lamps glowed from every alcove of the room. Light bounced off the gold filigree ceilings and reflected the colours of the stained glass windows.

Moti Mahal

Sheesh Mahal was Maharaja Ajith Singh’s bed chamber decorated with mirror work.

Sheesh Mahal

Phool Mahal is one of fort’s grandest period rooms. It was built by Maharaja Abhay Singh and was exclusively used for entertainment and private gatherings.

Phool Mahal

Takhat Vilas was built by the last ruler to live in Mehrangarh fort i.e. Maharaja Takhat Singh. 

The Mehrangarh fort has several entry gates. But the main gates are- Jai Pol, Fateh Pol and Loha Pol. It is near this gate that one can find the hand prints of the Ranis who committed Sati.

The widowed women would come bedecked in their jewels and finery and pass through the palace doors and fort gates for the last time. As they left, they would leave a vermilion stained hand imprint on the wall for posterity.

A silent procession would follow the women to the temple where they would give away their jewels and then proceed to join their dead husbands on the funeral pyre. The women would not scream or cry as the flames burned them alive.

Touring this magnificent fort would take anywhere between three to four hours. If one intends to cover it early, they have the convenience of elevators which take you directly to the period rooms and they walk down enjoying other rooms. But there is nothing like viewing the fort by walking around, just to feel the magnanimity of the early rulers by gazing at the never- ending tall walls of the citadel.

View of Umaid Bhavan Palace from the fort

A shop inside the fort...selling colorful Bandani dupattas

During our visit, we chose to take the Audio guide so that we could walk around according to our convenience (Of course, do check the working condition of the headphones once you have bought them).

When one is done and exhausted, be sure to grab something to munch on from the cafeteria that is in the fort complex that serves very good snacks!