Friday, 24 April 2020

Ibrahim Rauza in Bijapur- a photo blog

Ibrahim Rauza was our last destination of Bijapur trip, the first two being Gol Gumbaz and Bara Kaman. 

It is a mausoleum complex built in 1627 A.D by Adil Shahi ruler Ibrahim Adil Shah II. It was built by a Persian architect Malik Sandal with obvious Turkish influence. I could draw various similarities between this and Qutub Shahi tombs back in Hyderabad. The tomb is built on a square platform with a mosque facing it. Both tomb and the mosque are separated by a small tank with a fountain. Here are some photographs from the visit:

First glimpse of Ibrahim Rauza from the main entrance...




























A closer look...





































The exteriors of Adil Shah's tomb...


























Corridors around the mausoleum...











































































Persian Calligraphy and lattice work on and around the door...










































































View of the tomb from the mosque





































The brilliant sun behind the mosque...





























The cliched designs of Persian architecture...

























Mosque as seen from the tomb complex...


























Exteriors of the mosque...

























A hanging from the ceiling...





































Inside the mosque...pillars that form into beautiful arches and domes...






































Saturday, 4 April 2020

Adalaj Stepwell

Gujarat is home to numerous stepwells or 'Vav's (as called in local language); hiding in its treasure around 120 odd stepwells. It was a necessary system in the semi-arid/ arid areas like Gujarat and Rajasthan (Baoli as called in local language) during the olden times to manage the drought- prone areas. An interesting fact of these step wells is that the direct sunlight cannot penetrate the well thus it reducing the evaporation of water. At the same time, water also got filtered through the earth thus keeping it clean.
The 'Vavs' served two purposes in the earlier days- first, provided water for various activities during the summer months; second, provided shelter for travelers. In the present scenario, they provide innumerable opportunities to the seasoned eyes of artists and photographers to capture the beauty of architectural marvel of a bygone era.

View of the first storey...

























Marvelous carvings on the pillars and columns


























Another view


























Located in the village of Adalaj near Gandhinagar, the stepwell of Adalaj is one such example of architectural marvel. It was one of our stopping places while visiting Ahmedabad, after Akshardham temple in Gandhinagar to be more specific.

Adalaj stepwell was built in 1498 in the memory of king Rana Veer Singh by his wife queen Rudabai.
The construction of the vav was started by the king Rana Veer Singh to provide relief for people of this semi-arid region. However, before it was completed he was killed in a war by a Muslim ruler called Mehmud Begada. Mehmud, eventually, fell in love with the widowed wife of King Rana- Queen Roopba (also called Ruda Bai) asked her to marry him. The queen agreed to marry him but on one condition- that the incomplete step well be completed. In the years that followed, Mehmud completed the step well but only to witness that the Queen had tricked him and drowned in the same step well after construction.





















































Complete view of the well




































The stepwell is five- storied and was built using standstone in Solanki architectural style. It has varied Hindu and Jain floral and mythological motifs all over the walls. Among the motifs found, the Ami Khumbor (pot that contains water of life) and Kalpa Vriksh (tree of life) carved out of a single slab of stone are important ones. This richly ornamented Vav is in octagonal shape and the temperature inside the well remains 5-6 degrees lower than the outside ambient temperature.

Kalpavriksh carved on a single slab of stone...

























Ami Khumbor





































Intricate and breathtaking carvings on the walls











































































Carvings on exterior walls



























Being a popular tourist destination because of its proximity to Akshardham temple, each nook and corner of the vav was packed with huge crowd in the early afternoon of October when we visited. The crowd had definitely made our enthusiasm go down as at least one group was present in all the corners of the well stopping us from taking a closer look at the beautiful motifs on the wall. I made every effort to keep them out of my camera frame. On a quiet day, one could wander around exploring the beauty of this architectural extravaganza 

Friday, 27 March 2020

Ruins of Basgo Monastery in Ladakh

While I was still trying to absorb the stunning beauty of clear blue skies, barren brown mountains with patches of green pastures and gushing turquoise waters of Indus river in Ladakh, I visited the Basgo Monastery or the Basgo Castle/Palace.

Situated at distance of just 40 kms from Leh city, Basgo monastery gives the impression of a part of history holding and hanging down the crumbling walls and cliffs of the surrounding landscape. It's difficult to distinguish between the landscape and the walls of the monastery as it gives the impression that the monastery is trying to camouflage its' ruined state with the landscape.

View of Basgo Palace/ Monastery from the highway...




















































Chamba Lhakhang, highest point in Basgo
























Built atop a hill in 15th century, it was declared one of the 100 endangered world monuments by UNESCO in the year 2000. Due to its' strategic location, it was built to stop the constant attack by Muslim rulers. Back then, there were two important rulers who ruled over the Northern and Southern Ladakh- King Takbumde and King Takpabum who passed over Basgo among each other as a treaty. Later, the original king of Basgo fought back the kingdom and his descendants Dharmaraj Jamayang Namgyal and Dharmaraj Singay Namgyal built the Basgo monstery and castle.

Landscape around the  monastery...





















































Ruined walls in the midst of mountains...

















































The excitement of having visited a unique land made me wander around the deserted monastery. None of the three temple doors were open though I had followed the entry ticket counter searching for someone to provide the ticket. The altitude, the narrow alleys and the steps kept me gasping for breath even as I put forth slower than usual paces. The only sounds were that of our (my family) excited voices and rustle of the wind. Though my heart longed to see the massive Maitreya Buddha idol that is believed to be situated in one of the temples, I had to pacify myself and spend time basking around the palace with stunning views.

Steps leading to temple



































Chamba temple

Friday, 20 March 2020

Kopeshwar Temple in Khidrapur


Khidrapur happened because of a family trip to Sangli.

We had driven after a long time- from Hyderabad to Sangli stopping at night in Solapur. Located between the borders of Maharshtra and Karnataka, Khidrapur is about an hours drive from Sangli. It is easily accessible from Kolhapur too. Khidrapur is a quaint little village with sugarcane farms all around it.

The legend behind the temple is as gorgeous as the carvings in it- Sati's immolation in Daksha's yagya on insulting Lord Shiva and eventual anger in Shiva who beheads Daksha only to be pacified by Lord Vishnu to restore Daksha's head with a goat's head is the story behind it. Lord Visnu brought Lord Shiva to Khidrapur to pacify him. Hence the name Kopeshwar temple. Unlike other Shiva temples, Nandi is missing here as he escorted Sati during her immolation. We can witness Lord Visnhu too in this temple.

Though part of it was built in 7th century by Badami Chalukyas, it was completed in 11th and 12th century by Shilahara king Gandaraditya and Vijayaditya. But, like all the other temples in India, this too was attacked and parts broken by Aurangzeb! Even today, none of the 92 elephant sculptures in the vicinity have their trunks in tact.

At the entrance of Swargamandapa


















































Exteriors of the temple...

























The temple, built using hard basalt rock, stands as an example of one of the richest (in terms of architecture) in Maharashtra in the banks of river Krishna. The temple is divided in to four parts- the Swargamandapa, the Sabhamandapa, Antharal and Garbhagriha.
The first part- Swargamandapa, with its' circular open to sky ceiling, is its' unique feature. Though it looks incomplete, it was meant to be so. Of the total 48 pillars in the Swargamandapa, 12 main pillars have the sculpture of a deity  (Ashtadigpalas and other Gods) riding his/ her vehicle. Interestingly, these deities look as if they are riding alone if you look at them from front but a slight variation in angle would reveal their consort seated behind the deity except Karthikeya.

Complete view of Swargamandapa





































Open to sky ceiling


























Sculpture of deities on pillars

























Pillars in Swargamandapa





































The Sabhamandapa has 60 pillars with 5 Dwarapalas on lower panels of the door. The pillars depict stories from Ramayana, Panchatantra and other motifs of peacock, flowers etc., Photography inside the Sabhamandapa is prohibited. 

The Antaral has beautiful Madanikas carved (sadly broken) and an exquisitely carved  Chandrashila before entering the Garbhagriha. The Garbhagriha has two lingas- of Kopeshwar and Dhopeshwar. 
The exterior part of the temple has innumerable elephant and madanika sculptures.

The broken elephant sculpture, deity on the pillar with consort and dwarapalas...





































Exterior carvings, lattice window and madanikas...






























Spokes outside Swargamandapa




























Unfortunately, there was guide available when we visited and the crowd too was large. But it didn't stop us from savouring the beauty of the temple especially the Swargamandapa! On our way back, we stopped at another temple village Narsoba Wadi; more for the food at one of the 'bhojanalayas' called the 'Soman Bhojanalaya' that served authentic Maharashtrian thalis. This village is famous for its' Dattatreya temple situated next to Krishna river. 

Hoysaleshwara Temple at Halebeedu

Even before I decided to write anything at all on my blog again after a hiatus of about three years, I started reading my previous posts- to...